Tunisia's best beaches are in the north around Ghar el-Melh, Tabarka and Bizerte - much better than the crowded ones at the resorts. The beaches farther south look good on paper, but they're not so great for swimming. The best of that lot is at Aghir.

Tunisia is just waking up to the possibility of trekking. The forest of the Kroumirie Mountains around 'Ain Draham have enormous potential, but decent maps have yet to be drawn. More popular right now, camel trekking is best arranged out of Zaafrane, 12km (8mi) south-west of Douz, where you can arrange anything from an hour's ride to an eight-day oasis hop. If this hooks you on the desert's charms, dune skiing and land yachting can be arranged in certain areas.

Bird watching is popular in Tunisia, although the country has relatively few resident species. It's an important stopover for migratory birds, making spring and autumn the best times to go. Ichkeul National Park in the north is a prime site.

Ballooning and hydroplane flights are two relatively new options for getting above it all that can be arranged from Tozeur and Aghir, respectively.

The Islamic (or Hjira) calendar is a full 11 days shorter than the Gregorian (western) calendar, so public holidays and festivals fall 11 days earlier each year. In April for the next few years, Ras as-Sana is the Islamic celebration of the new year. Moulid an-Nabi celebrates the prophet Mohammed's birthday around June or July. These celebrations include parades in the city streets with lights, feasts, drummers and special sweets. Ramadan is celebrated during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar (presently in December), commemorating the month when the Qur'an was revealed to Mohammed. Out of deference, the faithful take neither food nor water until after sunset each day. At the end of Ramadan ('Eid al-Fitr), the fasting breaks with much celebration and gaiety.

'Eid al-Adha is the time of the pilgrimage to Mecca, which each Muslim is expected to make at least once in their lifetime. Streets are decorated with coloured lights and children play in their best clothes. The ritual of Mahmal is performed in each village as passing pilgrims are given carpets and shrouds to take on their journey. This all happens in March.

In terms of secular festivals, July and August are the months to remember. The main event on the Tunis calendar is the Carthage International Festival, which fills those months with music, dance and theatre performances at Carthage's heavily restored Roman theatre. The El-Jem International Symphonic Music Festival is held every July. The Dougga Festival of classical drama also takes place in July and August in, where else, Dougga. After the summer heat dies down, the biennial Carthage International Film Festival (concentrating on Middle Eastern and African cinema) takes place in October in odd-numbered years.

Public Holidays

1 January - New Year's Day

20 March - Independence Day

21 March - Youth Day

9 April - Martyr's Day

1 May - Labour Day

25 July - Republic Day

3 August - Public Holiday

13 August - Women's Day

15 October - Evacuation Day

7 November - Anniversary of Ben Ali's Takeover.