What the Federated States of Micronesia lack in land they more than make up for in water. Some of the region's most spectacular scenery is underwater, and the traveller who never looks below the surface is missing out on some incredible sights. What's more, the balmy water temperature means you won't even need a wetsuit. Divers the world over know about Chuuk's underwater wreck museum; more than 60 Japanese ships, as well as numerous planes, were sunk here during WWII, and most are still as they were at the time they hit the bottom. There are also some shallower wrecks suitable for snorkellers. Diving off Yap is enlivened by its schools of manta rays.

There's not much space for walking in the country, but there's some decent hiking on Tofol, Kosrae. The hike to the top of Mt Finkol takes 8 to 10 hours, and is a strenuous climb through rivers and mud. When you get to the top you can see all three of Kosrae's islands. Pohnpei's jungle interior also makes for some pretty good treks.

The Federated States of Micronesia celebrate most of the standard Western holidays: Christmas, New Year's Day and the American staple, Thanksgiving. In addition to FSM Constitution Day, on 10 May, and FSM Independence Day, on 3 November, each of the island groups celebrates its own national days. Kosrae's big holiday is Liberation Day, on 8 September, marking the American defeat of Japan on the islands at the end of WWII. Celebrations include sports competitions and canoe races. Christmas on Kosrae is a bit of a treat, with formation marching and singing competitions - Kosraen church choirs can belt out a spectacular tune - and a grand feast open to all.

Yap's big shindig is Yap Day, in the first week of March, with plenty of colourful ceremonial dancing and sporting events. Mitmits - all-out feasts accompanied by the liberal distribution of gifts and ceremonial singing and dancing - are held throughout the year. One village holds a mitmit for another village, which reciprocates the following year.