Abuko is unique among West African wildlife reserves in that it's fenced, well managed and very easy to reach. It has amazingly diverse vegetation for a park of only 105ha (260 acres), which is nourished by a stream that runs through its centre, allowing both riverside and savanna species to flourish. The park also boasts a wide variety of birdlife - some 270 species, many of which are difficult to see elsewhere - as well as a small animal orphanage. Some of the animals you can see in the orphanage include hyenas, lions, bushbucks and various species of monkeys. In the reserve itself, look also for duikers, porcupines, bushbabys, crocodiles and any of several species of snake.

A few kilometres north-west of Serekunda, the Atlantic coast resorts of Bakau, Fajara, Kotu and Kololi make up the heart of Gambia's tourist industry. Along this 10km (15mi) stretch of beach lie some 20 hotels, complete with all the touristy trimmings of water sports rentals, a golf course and beaches ideal for swimming and sunning.Fajara is the best place to get online in the country, and for that matter perhaps the whole of West Africa. The facilities at the internet cafes are excellent and the rates surprisingly reasonable considering the flash equipment.The northernmost resort, Bakau, also boasts a botanical garden that's worth a look. It was established during colonial times and is looking a little dilapidated now, but it's still a peaceful, shady place that's good for spotting birds. Bakau's other focal point is the Kachikaly Crocodile Pool, a sacred site for the local people, who come here to pray, as among some tribes in Gambia crocs represent the power of fertility. Be that as it may, this is probably the closest you'll come to crocodiles anywhere in Africa without getting your leg nipped off.At the southern end of the coastal strip at Kololi, a small wildlife reserve, Bijolo Forest Park, features a well-maintained series of trails through dense, shady vegetation, where you'll have a fair chance of seeing monkeys and numerous species of bird. It's a beautiful place to visit and well worth supporting, as it limits the extent of the area's development.

One of the smallest capital cities in Africa, Banjul lies on an island at the mouth of the Gambia River, separated from the mainland by a narrow creek. Unable to grow, the city has been stagnant for years, giving it a sleepy, down-at-heel ambience, more like a large village than a national centre. If you've come to The Gambia to experience Africa, rather than a slice of Europe laid down on a tropical beach, this city is a far better bet than the nearby Atlantic coast resorts.The vibrant heart of Banjul is Albert Market, a good place to pass a couple of hours strolling and shopping for clothes, shoes, fruits and vegetables, household goods and local handicrafts. Colourful, lively and chaotic, the market scene is Banjul at its African best. Nearby on MacCarthy Square, look for the War Memorial and the Fountain, erected to commemorate the coronation of Britain's King George VI in 1937.Though some of its exhibits are looking a bit dog-eared these days, the National Museum of the Gambia is worth visiting for its displays of photos, maps and text about archaeology, African peoples and the colonial period. Not far off, the 35m (115ft) Arch 22 is by far the tallest building in Gambia. Built to celebrate the military coup of 22 July 1994 (led by Lieutenant Yahya Jammeh, now Gambia's president), the arch provides excellent views over the city and the coast, and it's open to the public daily.When you're ready to get out of the city itself, local pirogues (skinny wooden boats with an outboard motor) ferry visitors on the quiet waterways of Oyster Creek, the main waterway separating Banjul island and the mainland. The creek (locally called a bolong) is a popular destination for bird-watchers, anglers and anyone keen to just laze around on a boat. The dense mangroves are particularly interesting.

Jufureh is a small village on the northern bank of the Gambia River about 25km (15mi) upstream from Banjul. It became world famous in the 1970s following the publication of Roots, in which African-American author Alex Haley tells the story of Kunta Kinte's capture in Jufureh and transportation as a slave to America some 200 years ago. Today, Jufureh is still a tourist trap, as it's easily reached from Banjul, although it's not as busy as it was when Haley's book was still fresh.Jufureh itself is nothing out of the ordinary, but when the daily busloads of tourists arrive, people jump into action. Women pound millet at strategic points, babies are produced to be admired and filmed, the artists in the crafts market crank into gear and an old lady called Binde Kinte (a descendant of Haley's own forebear) makes a guest appearance at her compound. Photos are produced of Haley and Binde Kinte and of the griot (storyteller) who first told Haley the tale of his family.The peaceful village of Albreda is very close to Jufureh and is usually visited at the same time. The main thing to see here is the ruined 'factory' - a fortified slaving station originally built by the French in the late 17th century. Nearby is a small shop selling some of the best batik in Gambia and a small museum with a simple but striking exhibition about the history of slavery on the Gambia River.

Because island-bound Banjul has nowhere to expand, Gambia's largest town, Serekunda, has become of the nation's de facto capital. Once a small village (its name means 'the home of the Sere family'), it's now the primary transport hub and activity centre of the country and, in contrast to the nearby Atlantic coast resorts, comes across as such - crowded, bustling and 100% African.For first-time visitors fresh off the plane at Banjul International Airport and expecting a view of instant tropical paradise, the coach trip through Serekunda's sprawling suburbs can be a bit of a shocker. The streets are lined with shops, stores, stalls and merchants of every cast. But once you've arrived, a stroll around the town centre or its thriving main market - in reality, the town is one big market - is highly recommended for a taste of unrelenting, in-your-face, urban West Africa.