Gabon's third-largest city is built on an island in the middle of the Ogooué River. The big attraction is the Schweitzer Hospital, about 8km (5mi) from town. The hospital is still fully functioning. Albert Schweitzer's office, home, library, laboratory and treatment centre are still there, though deteriorating. Part of the hospital is a museum, and guided tours are available.From Lambaréné, you can take a pirogue into the lake region, where hippos and other wildlife can be seen (especially during the dry season). Lac Evaro is the most popular of the lakes. Lambaréné is around 200km (125mi) south-east of Libreville.

Lastoursville is located on the southern banks of the Ogooué River, with rolling hills all around. Once a boomtown during construction of the Transgabonais, Lozo (as the locals call it) is now pretty sleepy, offering good restaurants and inexpensive accommodation. The main attractions are all outside of town, including hikes to the Boundji Waterfalls or the caves about an hour's walk from the centre. Lastoursville is about 400km (250mi) east of Libreville, on the Transgabonais.

With its big ocean-view hotels, office buildings, wide highways, fancy shops and cavalcades of taxis, Libreville looks more like a Miami Beach in the making than a major African city. Just to prove the point, its prices are big-time cosmopolitan as well: Libreville is one of the most expensive cities in the world. Every creature comfort is close to hand, but be prepared to pay for them.There's no lack of nightlife, either: the African quarters are full of fairly cheap places to eat and drink. They're easy to get to, not half as dangerous or rough as some other African capitals, and the hard-partying locals are always up for a beer or two. Be warned though: The Gabonese are the world's 20th-largest consumer of French champagne, don't mind a tipple or ten of anything and have enormous stamina. What may be a ragged night out on the tiles for you may be just a normal day for them.The Musée des Arts et Traditions is one of the best in Central Africa and definitely worth a visit as long as you can find it. It's poorly marked but is next to the Elf Gabon building in town. The Fang, Téké and Mitsogho masks are some of the best examples around, and are complemented by the wonderful collection of small carved harps, baskets and an authentic Mitsogho temple. The lively guide is an added bonus to the tour, but relies on well-earnt tips from the punters.L'Eglise St-Michel is a landmark church because of its 31 unusual wooden columns, carved by a blind Gabonese craftsman, each with a biblical scene. Equally interesting is the choir, which is accompanied by drums and balafons. The vibrant Marché du Mont-Bouët, about a kilometre east of the city centre compares favourably with the best markets in the region.The Palais Présidentiel overlooks the heart of town and is as much Bongo's paean to Western culture as it is to Gabon might. It was built during the heady days of the 1970s boom at a cost of US$800 million. This paid for the imported Italian marble and Greek columns. Unfortunately photographs are forbidden, and visitors aren't allowed inside.If it's deserted beaches you're after, then you've only got a choice of two: Pointe-Dénis and Ekwata Beach. Both are on the northern end of the peninsula on the southern side of the Estuaire du Gabon. Except for a fisher or two, both beaches are blissfully deserted and have the lay-back charm of a sleepy backwater. When the beachy theme gets too much, you can wander around the nearby forests, or get a bite to eat, listen to music and sink a few at the local bars in the fishing villages nearby. You can camp or stay at one of the chalets at Pointe-Dénis. Outboard canoes leave for both beaches from Port Môle and run on erratic schedules.The airport is several kilometres north of town.The seaport and railway terminal are in Owendo, 10km (6mi) south of central Libreville. Taxis are available, though if you walk from the airport to the main drag your fare will be cut in half. There are private red and white minibuses cruising all the major thoroughfares. Rental cars are hugely expensive and often restricted to use in and around Libreville.

Port-Gentil is an oil town, built on an island (Ile de Mandji) at the mouth of the Ogooué River. The northern point of the island, Cap Lopez, is flooded with expatriates, top-end hotels and the only decent beach. Port-Gentil has more restaurants, nightclubs and stores per capita than any other African city and has expanded to include a casino and a decent hospital. The African quartiers are cheaper than the top-end of town and offers a host of inexpensive restaurants, bars and clubs that are as lively and interesting as those in Libreville and even safer to visit.Port-Gentil is about 200km (125mi) south-west of Libreville. The only way to get there is by air or water. There are flights from Libreville, a ferry between Port-Gentil and the capital, or a riverboat, which you can catch in Lambaréné or Ndjolé.

The easiest wildlife reserve to get to is Réserve de la Lopé. This is the best place in the country to see wildlife, but you need your own vehicle to explore the park - you're not allowed in on foot and budget travellers are not well catered for (camping is not allowed inside the park).Established in 1982, the park consists of open savannah and small but dense forests beside the riverbeds. Except during the rainy season, the animals tend to favour the dense forest and you won't see much other than buffalo. The reserve is about 200km (125mi) east of Libreville and borders both the road and the Transgabonais railway line.