As a savoury blending of big-city bustle and African ease, Ghana's seaside capital is second to none on the continent. At once sprawling and accessible, rambunctious yet friendly, it's a city run by native Ghanaians, and their pride in their product shows. Best of all, even as popular as Accra's become in recent years, you still won't trip over Westerners at every third step. The best introduction to the city is a good browse in one of its main hawking grounds. Right at the heart of central Accra, the Makola Market brims with glass bead and batik sellers, while Kaneshie Market on the western side of the city is the one to hit for mouthwatering foods and spices. James Town, on a short peninsula south-west of the centre, is a handsome if dilapidated neighbourhood that's also worth a wander.A huge military parade ground backed by the sea and capable of holding 30,000 people, Independence Square is to Accra what Red Square is to Moscow, minus any building of note. The square is just east of central Accra; while you practice your goose-stepping, notice Osu Castle - Accra's most historic structure - in the distance. Disappointingly, it's now the seat of government and off-limits to visitors. The Arts Centre, between the city centre and Independence Square, is where artisans gather to sell their wares and entertainers come to take advantage of the crowds. Count on catching some type of dancing, singing, jamming or traditional theatre performance. The Arts Centre is also the best craft market in the country.Accra is famous throughout West Africa for its vibrant nightlife, especially its dance clubs, which centre around Nkrumah Circle. Rasta togs and dreadlocks usually mark the entrance to the hippest spots. Accra's beaches are another big draw, but the best ones are all a few kilometres outside of town. Coco Beach, east in Nungua, is accessible by tro-tro, but the nicest ones to the west all require private transport. Accra has some well established Internet cafes although they can be a little slow. New spots to surf, with faster connection times, are springing up all the time.

Travellers rave about the coastal area west of Accra, which boasts old slave-trading forts and fishing villages, a new nature reserve and low prices. Here, along a 250km (155mi) stretch of sand, you can visit 15 forts and castles and actually sleep in several for about US$2 per night. Many of the structures sprang up during the 17th century, when a number of the major European powers were competing for stakes in the booming slave trade. About half of them are now in ruins.Some 60km (37mi) west of Accra, the village of Senya Beraku boasts some great beaches and friendly folk. Its big attractions are Fort Good Hope (1706), where you can shack up for about US$1 per night, and the surfing beaches at nearby Fete. Another 30km (22mi) west is a small fishing village, Apam, and its main attraction, Fort Patience (1697), which has also been converted into a guesthouse. The first major town along the route is called Cape Coast, whose main landmark is the Cape Coast Castle (1652) in the heart of town. The dungeons within are dank and horrible, with the scratchings of desperate slaves still visible on the walls.About 9km (5mi) east of Cape Coast, Mori is the site of Fort Nassau (1612), the first Dutch fort built on the Gold Coast - even the bricks used for the walls were imported from Holland. Four km (2mi) farther east, Biriwa has one of the best beaches around and a restaurant where you can feast on delicious cheap seafood. Five km (3mi) beyond, Anumabu is the site of one of the most handsome and well built forts on the coast, Fort William (1730), and a brilliantly painted native asafo shrine.Some 30km (22mi) north of Cape Coast, the Kakum Nature Park comprises 357 sq km (139 sq mi) of dense vegetation, packed with monkeys, elephants, antelope and over 200 species of birds. Come between May and October for the best chance to see an elephant.A small, vibrant fishing village about 20km (13mi) west of Cape Coast, Elmina has both a fort and a castle. St George's Castle (1482) was built high on a rocky peninsula by the Portuguese when they discovered the area's richness in gold and ivory. The Dutch captured the castle in 1637 and built Fort St Jago (1652), several hundred metres away, to protect it. Both were expanded when slaves replaced gold as the major object of commerce, and tours of the buildings will leave you with a deep impression of how miserably the slaves were treated.

The ancient capital of the Ashanti kingdom, Kumasi is still the heart of Ashanti country and the site of West Africa's largest cultural centre, the palace of the Ashanti king. To add to the appeal, it's surrounded by rolling green hills and has a vast central market as vibrant as any in Africa.The city's major attraction is the National Cultural Centre, a 10 minute walk west of the market. The sprawling complex encompasses a fascinating museum of Ashanti history, a popular library, an excellent crafts shop and an exhibition hall. Classes in traditional dance and drumming are available. One of the centre's more interesting exhibits is the fake golden stool used to trick the British, who'd heard that the real Golden Stool held the strength of the Ashanti empire and demanded it be brought to them. It was decades before they discovered the ruse. The real stool is kept at Manhyia Palace and is brought out only on special occasions. It's so sacred that not even the king is allowed to sit on it, and it's never allowed to touch the ground. There's a photo of it in the museum.If you're looking to escape the heat, one option is to head next door to the zoological gardens, with its lovely gardens and somewhat depressing zoo - picture caged chimps toying with broken beer bottles. Watch your step, as crocodiles and porcupines roam freely. Half a kilometre to the west, the Anokye Sword sticks out of the ground exactly where - according to legend - the Golden Stool descended from the heavens to mark the beginning of the Ashanti people. Legend has it that if the sword is ever pulled out, the Ashanti kingdom will disappear.Manhyia Palace, better known as Asantehene's Palace, is the palace of the highest Ashanti ruler. Ashanti kings have never lived in luxury, and visitors are often surprised by how sparse and unpretentious the palace is. The current king lives in a more recent palace directly behind the old one, and if you bring a gift and enquire politely, you may be able to meet him. You might also try to arrive on the Adae Festival - there are two every 42 days - when the king's subjects come to pay him homage.In the villages around Kumasi, artisans specialise in crafts such as goldsmithing, wood carving, cloth printing and weaving. Bonwire is the place to go for kente cloth, Pankrono is best for pottery, Ahwiaa for woodcarving and Ntonso for andinkra cloth. Private taxis and tro-tro are the best ways to reach any of the craft villages.Though it's over 200km (125mi) north-west of the capital, Kumasi is Ghana's second largest traffic hub, so you'll have no trouble getting there and away. There are several flights per week to Accra and Tamale, as well as buses, trains, taxis and tro-tro.