Situated on the western border, Lesotho's capital has been a quiet backwater for most of its history, expanding rapidly only since the 1970s to its current population of a little over 200,000 people. Maseru paved its first road in 1947 for a visit by British royals, and for some years Kingsway remained the only such road in the country. For a 3rd world city in the middle of a period of massive expansion, however, Maseru manages to maintain a laid-back feel.Surrounding the capital are 'urban villages', such as Phomolong where you can get a first-hand look at a more traditional lifestyle. In the town itself, there are several nightspots frequented by expats - mostly workers for aid organisations - who can give you advice about things to do during your stay in return for a beer or three.

The name means 'Place of Quick Sands' which doesn't sound that welcoming, but Teyateyaneng has been developed by Lesotho authorities as the centre of the nation's traditional arts and crafts industries. The place is generally referred to locally as 'TY', and boasts some of the finest tapestries, tribal wool products and Letlotlo handcrafts gathered in one village. You can reach Teyateyaneng by minibus taxi from the capital. It's about 30km (18mi) to the north-east.

King Moshoeshoe the Great's mountain stronghold, first occupied in July 1824, is about 16km (10mi) east of Maseru. The most important historical site in the country, Thaba-Bosiu (Mountain at Night) features a visitor information centre, official guides and good views - including the Qiloane pinnacle, inspiration for the shape of the famous Basotho hat. Thaba-Bosiu was the site of regular attacks for 40 years, and - thanks to the geography - never fell to an invader. To get there, catch a minibus taxi near the Circle in Maseru - it'll take you as far as the visitors centre at the base of the mountain for under US$1.