Situated on the eastern edge of the Gulf of Sirt, Benghazi ranks as the second largest city in Libya and a major commercial centre. The city today displays little of its ancient heritage, as it was pretty much pummelled to pieces during WWII and rebuilt only after oil money began pouring in following the revolution. What it lacks in historical charms, however, it makes up for in location. Benghazi makes a great base for exploring the lush Jebel Akhdar area and the numerous Roman ruins along the coast, and there are good bathing beaches within a quick drive.With a good pair of walking shoes, you can cover central Benghazi easily on foot. The covered souqs are open daily, but they really come alive on Friday morning, when the whole city seems to convene for a shopping spree. The main covered market, the Souq al-Jreed on Sharia Omar al-Mukhtar, sells all manner of clothes and household goods, while not far off the street becomes a pedestrian precinct of small shops and cafes.On Sharia Omar al-Mukhtar, Freedom Square is one of the city;s most enchanting spots. On its western side is the evocative Old Town Hall, while at the northern end is the Atig Mosque. For an altogether different experience, visit any of the several beach clubs and tourist villages within easy reach of the city.

The oasis town of Ghadhames lies 650km (400mi) southwest of Tripoli, close to the borders of Algeria and Tunisia. If your time in Libya is limited and you plan to see one traditional desert place, this is the one to visit. Famous for its desert architecture, Ghadhames earned the sobriquet 'Pearl of the Desert' back in the 1950s, when it was a popular getaway for Tripoli folk. Since then a new town has sprung up around the old one, and the latter's dark, covered walkways and whitewashed mud-brick walls are a lot less boisterous than they once were.The old city is a labyrinth, lit only by occasional overhead skylights and open squares - a style unique to this part of the Sahara. It's also small enough to be entirely covered on foot, which is just what you should do when you arrive (bring a torch). Near the western entrance to the old town, Dan Magrumah House is an old merchant's house with its original furnishings and decorations kept intact. Sedija Square is surrounded by some superb mud-brick buildings.A 15km (10mi) drive outside of Ghadhames brings you to some decidedly non-spectacular Roman ruins on the 'Haunted Hill,' Ras al-Ghoul (yes, the English word 'ghoul' comes directly from the Arabic). Ruins aside, the hill's worth visiting for its vistas over the desert, and while you're there, there's a lake nearby that's popular for swimming and picnics.

If you only see one archaeological site in Libya, this is the one to choose. Regarded as the best Roman site in the Mediterranean, Leptis Magna's spectacular architecture and a massive scale will impress even the most ruin-weary traveller. The city was originally a Phoenician port, settled during the first millennium BC. Slaves, gold, ivory and precious metals brought it great wealth, which was supplemented by the rich agricultural land surrounding it. Roman legions ousted the Carthaginians following the third Punic War, after which the city flourished until the Vandals did their namesake thing in 455. Roman rule briefly returned to Leptis in 533, and intensive repairs were carried out on the city, but local tribes revolted and eventually the area reverted to pastoral nomadism dominated by the Berbers. The Arab invasions of 644 swept away the last traces of Roman life from the region, and in the 11th century Leptis Magna was finally abandoned to the encroaching sand dunes.It wasn't until the 20th century that excavation began in earnest, and, much to archaeologists' delight, the sands had preserved the ruins remarkably well. There's an excellent, large museum next to the main entrance to the site, but the real treasures wait out in the site itself. The first thing you'll encounter is the Severan Arch, which was erected in honor of Emperor Septimus Severus' visit to his hometown in 203 AD. Not far off are the marble and granite panelled Hadrianic Baths, the largest outside Rome. Keep exploring and you'll come across the partially covered nymphaeum, a shrine dedicated to the worship of nymphs; a pair of massive forums, similar in design and grandiosity to the imperial forum in Rome; the extraordinarily detailed basilica and theatre; and, if you continue west along the seashore about 700m (2100ft), the circus and amphitheatre, where chariot races and similar spectacles were held for the locals' amusement.

Known as Tarabulus in Arabic and Oea in antiquity, Tripoli is the de facto capital of Libya, although there have been attempts in recent years to move some government departments to other areas of the country. Once known as the 'White Bride of the Mediterranean' (whatever that's supposed to mean), Tripoli has lost much of its pristine allure, though its many historic mosques and lively medina retain a good deal of character. The Turkish and Italian colonial periods also left a distinctive mark on the city's architecture, and best of all, Gaddafi's revolution has ensured the absence of billboards and other hallmarks of a modern commercial city.Easily the most dominant feature of Tripoli is the Red Castle, Assai al-Hamra, which sits on the northern promontory overlooking what used to be the sea - a motorway and 500m (1640ft) of reclaimed land now separate the two. The massive structure comprises a labyrinth of courtyards, alleyways and houses built up over the centuries with a total area of around 13,000 sq metres (140,000 sq ft). Inside, look for evidence of all the city's (and thus the citadel's) former rulers: the Turks, Karamanlis, Spaniards, Knights of Malta, Italians and several others all left a piece of themselves in its arts and architecture.The entrance to the Jamahiriya Museum is on Green Square, next to the castle. These excellent facilities were built in consultation with UNESCO at enormous cost, and the exhibits within are laid out chronologically, starting with prehistory and ending up with the revolution. The most impressive parts are the mosaics, statues and artefacts from classical antiquity, which make up one of the finest collections in the Mediterranean.The medina is the heart of Tripoli, providing the most visually exciting and certainly the best shopping in the city, if not the whole country. As only a handful of tourists visit Libya, the souq has an authentic air and the goods on display cater to local taste. Even better news is that you'll find absolutely none of the hassle usually associated with a trip to a souq. When you've had your fill of the market scene, the old walled city also contains virtually all of Tripoli's historic mosques, khans (inns), hammams and houses. And to give the crowds an even wider berth, try visiting the city's peaceful zoo or any of the nearby beaches.