Beira, the second largest city in Mozambique, is a major port and rail terminus. Its compact central area and old Mediterranean-style buildings give the place some faded glamour. The heart of the city is the Praça (main square), which is surrounded by shops, markets and offices. The cathedral, just south-east of the centre, is looking a bit worse for wear these days but is definitely worth a stop. The bustling market at Tchunga Moyo (brave heart) is full of imported goods, contraband and some unsavoury characters, so travel light and walk carefully.The old part of the port is chock-a-block with wrecked vessels. Many people head for the fine sands and fairly clean waters at Praia de Macuti. There's an old shipwreck washed up on the shore near the red and white lighthouse at the northern end of the beach.Beira is 880km (550mi) north of Maputo, accessible by air (from Maputo and some other cities in Mozambique and Zimbabwe) and train a few times a week. The bus leaves more often but takes two days from Maputo.

Located near the very southern tip of the country, Maputo was once renowned as a beautiful city and rated by world travellers alongside Cape Town and Rio. But after almost 20 years of war and deprivation the capital is very rundown today, with crumbling buildings and dirty streets. Nevertheless, it's still an interesting place, with a very lively atmosphere. And the place slowly but surely improves. Old-timers say Maputo is already regaining some of its old charm.The oldest historic site is the fort, where you can patrol the ramparts, look at the old cannons or just sit and rest in the grassy courtyard. A must-see is the train station, designed and built in the early 1900s by the same Eiffel who gave us the famous tower. Recently renovated, it looks more like a palace, with polished wood and marble decorations, topped by a gigantic copper dome.Other highlights include the Botanic Gardens; the National Art Museum, which has a fine collection of Mozambique's best contemporary artists; and the lively Municipal Market, where fruit, vegetables, spices and basketwork are sold.

Mozambique Island (Ilha de Moçambique - commonly called 'Ilha') is a small chunk of land anchored about 3km (2mi) off the mainland (linked by bridge). Once the capital of Portugal's East African colony, the island is now known for its array of mosques and churches and its Hindu temple. Most of the sites are on the northern half, which has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The number one attraction is the Palace and Chapel of São Paulo - the former governor's residence - dating from the 1700s. This large building overlooks a large square inlaid with patterned stones, and the straits on the west side of the island. These days it's a museum, containing furniture and ornaments from Portugal, Arabia, India and China. Given the strife of the past 20-odd years, it's in remarkably good shape. Nearby is the Museum of Sacred Art, containing religious ornaments, paintings and carvings.At the northern end of the island is the Fort of São Sebastião, also in surprisingly good condition. Right nearby is the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, reported to be the oldest building in the southern hemisphere. Ilha can be reached by direct bus from Nampula on the mainland. Other options include hired car and boat.

Pemba is a coastal town at the mouth of a huge bay. It boasts some interesting buildings (especially in Baixa - the old town) and a lively atmosphere. Most visitors come for the beaches - particularly Wimbi Beach (sometimes spelt Wimbe) - and the coral reefs. Wimbi is about 5km (3mi) east of town. The reef is so close you can swim out to it. A fledgling tourist industry is already transforming the place with bars, restaurants, diving, snorkelling, boating, fishing, etc. The Makonde workshop on the road between town and the beach has good wooden carvings for sale at even better prices (but stay away from the ivory). Bus or hired car is the way to get there, though you can get a dhow by asking around the port.