Chuuk (formerly Truk) is colourful, lively and rough around the edges. It comprises 15 main islands, 92 outer islands and over 80 islets in the Chuuk Lagoon. Its biggest drawing cards are its sunken wrecks, and its most enthusiastic visitors are divers. A whole Japanese fleet rests on the lagoon floor, evidence of the largest naval loss in history. Each wreck is a time capsule - some are upright, some intact, some in pieces. The holds are full of guns and trucks and fighter planes, the dining areas are littered with dishes, silverware and sake bottles, and the skeletal remains of the perished crews lie 'buried' at sea.Back on dry land, Chuuk's houses are commonly painted in several bright contrasting tones and village life proceeds amongst them at a leisurely pace. On hot days village women sit in streams doing laundry and young children run around naked. You might find that sitting on Weno, the main island, and watching the sun set behind the Faichuk Islands in the western lagoon, is as energetic as you want things to get. Most accommodation options are on Weno, but there are lodge-style places on other islands. Weno is connected with Pohnpei and Guam on the island-hopper air-routes.

Kosrae is one of the least spoiled and least developed areas in the Federated States, a laid-back place that retains an air of innocence. The main island measures 42 sq miles (109 sq km) and is volcanic with an interior of uncharted rainforests, a pristine fringing reef and a coast which is a mix of sandy beaches and mangrove swamps. The people are casual and unpretentious and, given that it's unusual to have more than about a dozen visitors at a time on the island, the residents still take a friendly interest when someone new is in town.Impressive ruins on the connected island of Lelu date from around the 14th century when Kosrae's chief's were the dominant regional power. Though the outskirts of the massive royal city have been torn down, the remaining ruins still give the feeling of being in an ancient, hidden city, the kind of isolated setting you might imagine trekking hours through dense jungle to find. Lelu Hill, the island's high point, has a scattering of caves and tunnels used by the Japanese in WWII.Kosrae has unspoiled coral reefs close to shore that are suitable for both walk-in and boat diving. Underwater visibility can easily be 100ft (30m), and in summer as much as 200ft (60m). The Blue Hole in Lelu harbours coral heads, lionfish, stingrays and barracuda. In the south, a nice spot is Hiroshi's Point, a drift dive that takes in beautiful soft corals and hammerhead sharks. There's an American search plane in about 60ft (20m) of water at the mouth of Lelu Harbor. Also in the vicinity are two Japanese boats and the remains of a whaling ship.Accommodation in Kosrae is limited to a scattered handful of small and not particularly cheap hotels. Camping is a fairly foreign concept, but amenable locals will probably help you arrange somewhere to pitch a tent. Flights between Guam and Honolulu generally make a free stopover in Kosrae and there are also island-hopping flights to Pohnpei and the neighbouring Marshall Islands' Majuro Atoll.

Pohnpei, with its lush vegetation, jungle hillsides and flowering hibiscus, fits the typical South Sea island image, albeit a wet one. The main island is the largest in the Federated States of Micronesia, measuring 129 sq miles (334 sq km). It's roughly circular in shape, edged with coves and jutting peninsulas. The coastline is mainly tidal flats and mangrove flats, but there are dozens of small islands with lovely beaches in the lagoon between Pohnpei Island and the surrounding reef.The ancient stone city of Nan Madol, abandoned on nearly 100 artificial islets off the south-eastern coast, is the Federated State's best known archaeological site. Nan Madol was built from stacked basalt pillars during the tyrannical Saudeleur dynasty which peaked in the 13th century. Nan Douwas is the largest structure still standing: the outer walls of the compound stand 25ft (8m) and the inner compound contains burial crypts. Although many of Nan Madol's temples, vaults, bathing areas and pools have collapsed, the site still has immense dramatic impact. Pohnpei's boldest natural landmark is the scenic Sokehs Rock, a 500ft (180m) sheer basalt cliff face that can be climbed by those who like a challenge.The main town of Kolonia is relatively large by island standards, yet it retains a small-town character. Palikir, 5 miles (8km) away, is the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia. Pohnpei's airport and most of the island's hotels and restaurants are in Kolonia. There are frequent flights from Honolulu and Guam, as well as from other Micronesian airports.

Yap, the land of giant stone money, is the most traditional district in the Federated States of Micronesia. Most people dress in Western clothes but a fair number of men and boys wear bright coloured loincloths and some of the women wear only woven hibiscus skirts. Everyone has a bulge of betel nut in their cheek.Yap Proper consists of four islands - Yap, Tomil-Gagil, Map and Rumung. Unlike other high islands in the country which are volcanic in origin, Yap Proper was formed by land upheavals of the Asian continental shelf. Consequently, the landscape is more rolling hills and dales than mountain peaks and plunging valleys. Of the 134 outer islands many are mere strands of coral and sand rising precariously above the water. Typhoons have been known to wash an entire island into the sea.The island's communities are connected by centuries-old stone footpaths, and village houses are still built in the elaborate, traditional style with wood, thatch, rope and bamboo. It's a society where the caste system survives and where village chiefs still have as much clout as elected public officials. Stone money is used for some traditional exchanges, though the US dollar settles most commonplace transactions. Note that the Yapese are offended by tourists who brazenly point cameras at them, though they are receptive to travellers who respect their customs and culture.Accommodation in Yap ranges from cheap guesthouses in traditional villages to conventional tourist hotels. Yap is accessible by air via Guam and Palau.