In the hilly north-west, the Malolotja Reserve is a mix of highveld and middleveld, and is home to more than 280 bird species, some of them rare. Taking its name from Swaziland's highest waterfall, of which there are another 26 in the park, Malolotja protects 18,000 hectares (44,460 acres) of pristine wilderness. Wildflowers and rare plants, such as the woolly barberton and the kaapschehoop cycad, and protea forests around the numerous streams attract visitors, but you're likely to meet more wildlife than human life. The park harbours baboons, vervet monkeys, warthogs, leopards, lynxs, jackals and numerous antelope species, as well as more than 280 species of birds. Zebras, hartebeests and wildebeests have been reintroduced. It's fantastic country for hiking, with numerous marked trails, spectacular peaks and conveniently placed camping grounds with facilities. Malolotja also has the oldest known mine in the world, which was in production more than 40,000 years ago. You can reach Malolotja, about 20km (12mi) north-west of Mbabane, by bus or car on a good sealed road.

Bordering Mozambique in the far east of Swaziland, this 18,000 hectare (44,460 acre) reserve is undeveloped and little visited, although it offers beautiful, if harsh, country in the foothills of the Lebombo Mountains. Rare species of succulents, cycads and climbers grow among the ironwood forests, and shy spotted hyenas and leopards reside here, as do hippos, samango monkeys, waterbucks, wildebeests, crocodiles, antelopes, zebras and more than 350 species of bird. Nasties such as the bilharzia parasite hang around the waterways among the crocs, and three species of deadly snakes also call the reserve home. Walking trails are still being established and archaeological trails are planned as stone age artefacts have been unearthed here. Accommodation is so far in campsites with basic ablution blocks. The Mlawula is reached via a good paved road east from Mbabane, about 10km (6mi) north of Siteki by bus or car.

Siteki is on the road to nowhere, but the town offers a cool respite in the Lebombo Mountains from the plains below. The former haunt of highwaymen and frontier troops, the town takes its name from Mbandzeni, great-grandfather of the present king, who gave his troops permission to marry here. The town's name means 'marrying place'. Siteki is renowned for its Inyanga and Sangoma School, a government school to train healers and diviners. It's a fascinating mix of botany, spiritualism and natural science, and you can visit the school if you arrange it in advance through Swazi Tourism in Mbabane. Not far from Siteki is the Muti-Muti Nature Reserve used extensively by practitioners at the Inyanga and Sangoma School for the variety of herbs used in their work (muti means roughly 'magic' and 'folk medicine' in southern Africa). You can reach Siteki via a good paved road east from Manzini, a trip of about 60km (37mi) by car or bus.