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OFF the BEATEN TRACK
 
Mana Pools National Park

The magic of this national park stems from the pervading sense of the wild and natural, aspects which are somewhat lacking at Hwange with its artificial dams and petrol-generated water holes. It also lies in the park's relative remoteness, as well as the licence to wander around on foot from 6 am to 6 pm according to the dictates of individual courage. The word 'Mana' means four, in reference to the four pools around the park headquarters: Main, Chine, Long and Chisambik.Except in the heat of the middle of the day, Long Pool is a busy spot. You're almost guaranteed to see hippo and crocodile, as well as zebra, antelope and elephant. For campers, the most memorable moments will come at night, while lying sleeplessly listening to elephant splash and trumpet beside the river and hippo grunt nearby. The almost incessant roaring of lions reverberates through the camp (don't freak: hungry lions don't roar lest they scare away their prey; roaring lions are normally fat and satisfied). Hyena yelp with their odd crescendos, stealthy footfalls approach and retreat outside the tent and unidentified raucous cacophonies erupt and subside in the bush. Don't count on a slumberous first night.Mana Pools is in northern Zimbabwe, and is accessible by canoe along the Zambezi River from Chirundu, or by car (May to October only) via Marongora along the Zambezi Escarpment.

 
Mavuradonha Wilderness

In 1988, the Zimbabwe government set aside a 500 sq km (200 sq mi) chunk of the Mavuradonha Range above the Zambezi Escarpment as a wilderness area and game reserve. Characterised by rugged, mountainous uplands, the wild landscape is simultaneously beautiful and daunting. Its protected status has lured prolific birdlife, several species of antelope, as well as leopards, baboons and even elephants and lions.Mavuradonha is one of Zimbabwe's finest hiking venues. Although tracks have been established, they aren't always easy to follow. If you're doubtful and heading off into the wilderness unguided, there are week-long horseback safaris available. Mavuradonha is only about 60km (37mi) north of Harare; occasional buses will drop you near park headquarters.

 
Mt Selinda

The village of Mt Selinda sits in a hollow above the Chipinge district coffee plantations in the Eastern Highlands. The main attraction is the Chirinda Forest Reserve, a 949 hectare (2350ac) slice of hardwood forest, and in fact the southernmost tropical rainforest in Africa. Chirinda is crisscrossed with paths, but most people choose the Big Tree route, which leads to - you guessed it - Zimbabwe's biggest tree. This 1000 year old, 66m (215ft) high and 15m (50ft) round behemoth belongs to the red mahogany species. Frequent buses do the 30km run between Chipinge, a sizeable town in the southern portion of the highlands, and Mt Selinda.

 
Tengenenge Farm

Although it's well off the trampled route, Tengenenge Farm, a remote sculptors' community at the foot of the Great Dyke near Guruve in Northern Zimbabwe, makes a worthwhile visit. The farm is the realised vision of tobacco farmer Tom Blomefield, who earned enough money from chrome mining to abandon farming and concentrate on his consuming interest in art. Today, the farm is supported by the sale of artists' works as well as outside sponsorship, and is always on the lookout for new talent. Some of the original artists maintain farms at the community while others have established studios nearer their market.Visitors can stroll through the extensive sculpture gardens, which contain around 17,000 original pieces. Room and board is expensive at the farm but you can bring your own food and you can always camp in the bush. There's no public transport to Tengenenge; the nearest bus passes a turn-off 19km (12mi) west of the farm, and, unless you're lucky with a lift, you'll probably have to hoof it from there.


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