Andros is a rough-edged, wild place, covered with vast swathes of palm savannas, eerie forests of mahogany, pine and palmettos and a huge mangrove wetlands. The primeval forest is so imposing that islanders swear they're inhabited by little red-eyed elves called chickcharneys who prey on those hapless enough to disturb them. The eastern shore has few outposts of civilization: scruffy shacks surrounded by rusty cars and discarded refrigerators are a common sight.Andros is not geared for tourism; apart from those who come to dive the world's third-longest barrier reef, birdwatchers and beachbums are the most frequent visitors. There are some colorful, down-at-heels places on the islands, including a town with a dolphin mascot that returns each season, a dilapidated lighthouse, and Somerset Beach, a gem at low tide. Red Bay, at the northwestern tip of North Andros, is inhabited by descendants of Seminole Indians who are famous for their beautiful basketry.

Long, spindly Cat Island is one of The Bahamas' islands least touched by tourism, where islanders still practice Obeah and bush medicine and make their living from basketry. Pink-sand beaches stretch for miles along the Atlantic coast; the western shore is laced with bonefish-clogged creeks. Swamps, mangroves, scrub and mahogany forest the interior. The town of New Bight, near the southern end of the island, originated as a free-slave settlement in the early 19th century. Among its claims to fame is the Holy Redeemer Catholic Church, one of the architectural creations of an apostate Anglican priest named Father Jerome. Jerome also designed the Mt Alvernia Hermitage, a Celtic-Mediterranean fusion perched atop a hill at the end of a stone staircase. The hermitage makes for a stunning 360° view, especially at sunrise or sunset. Just north of town is Armbrister Creek, which is actually a creek-laced mangrove estuary perfect for exploring by canoe (rentable at the nearby Fernandez Bay Village resort). It leads inland to a crystal clear lake called Boiling Hole that bubbles and churns under certain tidal conditions, fueling local fears that it's haunted by a monster. Baby sharks and rays can be seen cruising the sandy bottom.

Virtually untapped by tourism, Long Island is the most scenic in The Bahamas. Atlantic rollers crash against the cliffs on the windward coast. Shallow bays indent the western shore. At the northern tip of the island is Cape Santa Maria, where the western shore is one long white-sand beach shelving into turquoise shallows. Snorkeling is especially good at the reef gardens on the cape's southern end. The island's main base is Stella Maris, the setting for acclaimed scuba diving and sport fishing. The town is essentially an upscale residential community on the northeastern coast, though there are good beaches and tidepools. There's a spectacular beach at McKann's Bay on the western coast, where tall dunes back a wide crescent of sand indented with bird-filled lagoons.In the center of the island is the commercial hub of Salt Pond, where the biggest excitement is the arrival of the mail boat. Aside from the beautiful St Joseph's Anglican Church, there are few sights here, but you can hike trails through tall dunes overlooking the waters on both sides of the islands. Fifteen miles (24km) south of Salt Pond is Deadman's Cay, where history buffs can poke around the ruins of an old plantation. Immediately south of town are Cartwright's Caves, once used by Lucayan Indians and now home to a colony of bats. Just south of Deadman's Cay is the hamlet of Petty's, home of the famous Wild Tamarind Pottery Studio, where you can browse or buy fine ceramics.