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OFF the BEATEN TRACK
 
Chuuk's Western Islands

The Western Islands, Chuuk's most remote and traditional, share close ties with the outer islands of Yap. Men still wear bright loincloths and the women wear only woven fibre or grass skirts. Houses are made of thatch, subsistence comes from the sea and men continue to sail single-hulled outrigger canoes carved from breadfruit logs, relying on centuries-old navigational methods to get around.There are no guesthouses on any of the islands, but the governor's office on Weno can sometimes help with accommodation arrangements. There are flights from Weno to Ulul, the main island; a couple of field trip ships also visit Ulul irregularly.

 
Mortlocks

The Mortlocks stretch about 180 miles (290km) south-east from Chuuk Lagoon. The Mortlockese are gentle, easy-going people and are more Westernised in their dress than other outer islanders. They also tend to be a more religious bunch, perhaps because this was where Christian missionaries established Chuuk's first church. The introduction of Christianity hasn't halted the production of traditional Mortlockese masks of hibiscus wood. Once worn by men during battle and to ward off evil spirits, they are now carved for Chuuk's tourist trade.For visitors, the handiest destination in the Mortlocks is Satawan Atoll, which has both boat and air connections to Weno. There are a few simple and perfectly adequate cottages for visitors staying overnight.

 
Nukuoro Atoll

Nukuoro is a real haven. One of Pohnpei's outer atolls, it comprises 42 tiny islets formed in a near-perfect circle around a lagoon 4 miles (6km) in diameter. The Polynesian inhabitants are very welcoming, making this a fine place to spend some time just lazing around on beaches, picking up seashells and playing with island children. There is a guesthouse on the pier. There's no airport on Nukuoro; an irregular passenger boat passes about once a month.

 
Woleai Atoll

Woleai, one of Yap's outer islands, has an appealingly simple lifestyle, friendly people and beautiful beaches. About 800 people live on five of Woleai's 22 islets, some of which are clustered together and joined at low tide by sand bars. Woleai holds firmly onto its traditional ways: canoes are favoured over motorboats, and there are rules against wearing T-shirts, pants, baseball caps and other Western clothing. While foreign visitors are exempt from clothing regulations, it aids your acceptance if you endeavour to wear traditional dress.There are no formal commercial places to stay, but camping or homestays can usually be arranged. Woleai is accessible by plane from Yap or by slow and circuitous boat. Permission is necessary to visit Woleai (and Yap's other outer islands): make a request to the Special Assistant for Outer Islands Affairs in Colonia, Yap, at least a month before you hope to visit.


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