The southernmost of Vanuatu's islands, Aneityum arguably has the most pleasant climate. Tropical fruits and vegetables grow luxuriantly and a walking track that loops around the island makes trekking an attractive prospect. It is harder work in the interior, but worth it for the magnificent mountain scenery punctuated by massive kauri pines and ancient waterfalls. Three mountains dominate the interior, two of them extinct volcanoes, Mt Inrerow Atahein and Mt Tahentchai. Accessible reefs, such as Port Patrick and Inmal Reef, are ideal for diving and hot springs at Umetch, Itchepthav Bay and Anwunupol offer a rewarding soak at the end of a long day. The locals at Anawamet have created an offshore marine sanctuary to protect the numerous turtles that feed there, whereas they are hunted for food elsewhere on the island. Vanair links Aneityum to Vila.

Dominated by Mt Garet, which puffs steam, ash, sulphur and smoke into the air, Gaua Island is renowned for its natural beauty. Lake Letas lies on an ash plain at the top of the mountain, and the lake's extraordinary ability to carry the reflection of passing ships hundreds of metres below has earned it the more prosaic name of Lake Reflection. At 7km (4.3mi) long, it is one of the largest freshwater lakes in the South Pacific, although volcanic sulphur has stained the waters orange-brown. Thousands of birds come here to feed, and incubator birds lay their eggs close by, abandoning them to incubate in the warm mud. De Quiros estimated that 200,000 people lived on Gaua, most likely a gross exaggeration to impress the Spanish king, but dozens of stone ruins and dry stone walls reclaimed by forest attest to a time when Gaua supported a larger population than the 1300 it does today. Trekking on Gaua is strenuous, but the lake and Siri Falls are worth it. The falls drop away into dense forest shrouded in mist. The Banks Group, of which Gaua is the second largest, is serviced by air from Luganville, and speedboats ply between the islands. Small trading ships also service it from Luganville.

A needle-thin chunk of land on the maps, Maewo's central mountainous ridge draws more than 4000mm (that's 4m, or 13ft) of rain annually. Not surprisingly, the rivers run fast and the jungle grows thick. A magnificent waterfall surrounded by deep waterholes lies near the airstrip. Two coral monoliths at the village of Kerembai represent people turned to stone in the island's mythic past. Sorcery, secret societies and a rich mythology flourish on the island despite, or perhaps because of, its tragic history. About 90% of Maewo's population was wiped out by disease and blackbirding during the 19th century. Avoid Maewo during the mid-year yam harvest, when the mid-year hurters, masked men wearing sacks and banana leaves chase and beat people with thorny sticks. Hot springs at Lolarouk and Gaiofo, and cascades at Naone make Maewo worth more than a flying visit, and you can dive on a wrecked blackbirding vessel at Talise. Reach Maewo by air from Luganville or on the Aloara, that sails from Vila and Luganville.

When the South-East Trade Winds are blowing in the far north of the archipelago the surf is up in the Torres Islands, and even if it's not, the brilliant white beaches are still worth a laze. Only four of the six main islands are populated, and the Polynesian influence is at its strongest here. They get so few visitors this way that the shops are not geared up to tourists, so you'd be wise to bring some of your own supplies. Coconut crabs, elsewhere a delicacy, constitute an important part of the local diet and you can pick them up cheaply. On Toga Island, children as young as seven smoke tobacco, using coconut crab claws as pipes. Hand stencils are visible on the walls at Yeyenwu Caves on Hiu Island, the northernmost island in the group, and they will keep stalactite and stalacmite buffs entertained for hours. You can see Vanikolo in the Solomons from Mt Wonvaraon on Hiu. Flights leave from Luganville for Linua, and from there you can get around in outrigger canoes or speedboats.