If people are going to persist with an American dream, they may as well wake up to some of this. The three islands and 60-odd cays that comprise the US Virgin Islands include some of the most magnificent coast on earth. This tiny addendum to the stars and stripes earns its crust providing a taste of paradise and a bit of light relief to nearly two million vacationers each year. Swanky resorts, an armada of cruise ships and a massive yacht charter industry hardly sound like the turf of the indie traveler. However, it is possible to travel the Virgin Islands - especially low-key St John - without joining Bud and Barbara on the poop deck with a piña colada in hand.