There are no direct flights to the British Virgin Islands from either the US or Canada. The only access by plane is via San Juan in Puerto Rico or St Thomas or St Croix on the US Virgin Islands. From these transit points you can pick up a small plane for the jaunt to Tortola or Virgin Gorda. Heaps of international airlines fly to San Juan, one of the busiest hubs in the Caribbean. American Airlines, Delta and US Airways have direct flights from several US destinations to St Thomas and St Croix. Most flights from Europe connect via Miami or San Juan before flying on to St Thomas.

From San Juan, American Eagle, LIAT ('Leave for the Islands Anytime') and Air Sunshine have daily flights to Tortola; Air St Thomas flies from San Juan to Virgin Gorda daily except weekends. From St Thomas, there are daily flights on LIAT and to Tortola; flights to Virgin Gorda and Anegada are less frequent. There's a US$10 air tax when leaving the British Virgin Islands.

Ferries shuttle between Tortola and Virgin Gorda in the British Virgins and St Thomas and St John in the US Virgin Islands. There's a US$5 sea departure tax ($7 for cruise ship passengers).

Beef Island International Airport is connected to the eastern coast of Tortola by a short bridge. It's 9 miles (15km) east of Road Town. Plenty of taxis are available for trips into the capital. The tiny airport on Virgin Gorda is near Spanish Town, at the edge of Taylors Bay on the southeastern coast. There's an airstrip smack in the middle of Anegada; you can walk from the airport to most places on the island.

Anyone who's done it will tell you the only way to get around the British Virgin Islands is by chartered sailboat, and there are loads of bareboat charter operators ready and willing to help your dream boat vacation come true. Road Town has the most charter companies, but there are scores of others on every island. A proficiency test is required before you're allowed to go it alone, and night sailing or sailing near Anegada, where waters can be very rough, is prohibited. Crewed yachts are also for hire.

Fly BVI has flights between Tortola and Virgin Gorda, with occasional flights to Anegada as well. A better way to island hop in the British Virgins is via the ferries that go between the larger islands of Tortola, Virgin Gorda and Jost Van Dyke. Dozens of water taxis are available to ferry you anywhere else you may wish to go, or you can hire a motorboat and putt off with a picnic.

There are heaps of car rental agencies on Tortola. You'll need a temporary British Virgin Islands driving license, available from the rental agencies, and a valid license from home. Drive on the left. Anegada has a jeep rental shop, which is good because its roads are nothing more than glorified sandlots. There are rental agencies on Virgin Gorda, but if you're just heading to the Baths and back it's easier to jump on a shuttle bus. There are jeep rental agencies on St John, but they've only got a few vehicles, so book ahead. If you bring your own bicycle to the islands, you're supposed to register it with the traffic office in Road Town.

It's not difficult finding a taxi on Tortola but tougher on the other islands. Rates are fixed and based on the distance and the number of passengers. Tortola's bus service is unpredictable, so don't rely on it to get to any hot dates. The best way to get around the smaller islands is to walk or boat from bay to bay.