With a total area less than that of the Bahamas or the US state of Connecticut, Gambia ranks as one of the smallest countries in the big lump that is West Africa. Its boundaries resemble a long and winding length of intestine, roughly 35km (20mi) wide and 300km (185mi) long, with the Gambia River, the country's most notable geographical feature, dividing the nation lengthwise neatly in two. Gambia's western boundary is the Atlantic Ocean; otherwise, the country is entirely engulfed by Senegal.

The country's landscape is so flat that in the Gambia River's 450km (280mi) meandering course, it drops in elevation only about 10m (30ft). The river ecology is easily divided into two distinct zones, estuarine and freshwater, which in turn largely determine the peripheral vegetation pattern. Salt water sneaks in some 150km (95mi) upstream, as far as Kantaur in the dry season (November to June). In the lower estuary, mangroves dominate the riverside, with extensive reed belts in the in-between zone, while where the water is fresh, the banks are lined with gallery forest. Away from the river, The Gambia's position in the southern Sahel, a semi-arid region south of the Sahara desert, means natural vegetation is more or less limited to dry grassland and open savanna.

Over 600 species of bird have been recorded in Gambia, a concentration well out of proportion to its small size. Abuko Nature Reserve is the best place close to Banjul to go looking for them, but there are five other national parks and reserves where the fauna is equally abundant. Tanji River Bird Reserve on the coast is an important stopover for migrating birds, particularly waterfowl, which return in large numbers each winter from Europe. The River Gambia National Park is the place to see monkeys and chimpanzees; Abuko Nature Reserve is also a good reserve to see monkeys.

The Gambian climate is characterised by a long dry season (from November to May) and a short rainy season (from June to October), with August by far the rainiest month. The country's average daytime high temperatures range from 24°C (75°F) from December to February to 30°C (86°F) from June to September. Temperatures are mildest along the coastline, and the amount and duration of rainfall lessens as you head inland. Humidity is only a problem just before the rains begin in June.

Travellers to Gambia have a range of food and lodging options before them. If you're travelling on a tight budget, as little as US$12per day is enough to get by (if you don't spend long in the Atlantic coast resorts), though upping the ante to US$15-25 can make the night's sleep and belly's fill sweeter. With US$30-50 per day at your disposal, you can stay in decent hotels, eat well and travel comfortably (whenever comfort is available), but if you really want to throw down, you can easily top US$200 a day and see how the royal half lives.

You can change money at banks and exchange bureaus in Banjul, Serekunda and some of the Atlantic coast resorts. Upcountry, the only place with a bank is Basse Santa Su. Some banks charge a commission to cash traveller's cheques, but those that don't have poorer rates, so you get about the same return regardless of which you choose. The exchange bureaus on the Atlantic coast usually offer slightly better rates than the banks and don't charge commission. You can draw cash with a Visa or MasterCard at some of the bigger banks, like Standard Chartered. Black market dealers offer around 5% better rates than the banks, but the inevitable risks make it seldom worthwhile to do business on the street.

Tipping for favours rendered is part of life for 'rich' foreigners in Gambia - and, West Africa being among the poorest places on the planet, all visitors are considered rich. If someone goes out of their way to help you find a hotel, for example, an appropriate

The best time to travel in Gambia is from November to February, when conditions are dry and relatively cool. However, around this same time of year the dry, dusty