The volcanic islands of Samoa lie halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand and just to the west of American Samoa. The two major islands, 'Upolu and Savai'i, make up an area slightly smaller than Rhode Island and constitute most of the dry land. 'Upolu is cigar-shaped, with the capital, Apia, sitting on its northern coast while Savai'i (a few kilometres to the west of 'Upolu and slightly larger) looks like a squashed cigar. The only other inhabited islands, Manono and Apolima, are two small blobs in the Apolimo Strait which separates 'Upolu and Savai'i. A number of tiny uninhabited islands and a few lonely atolls make up the remainder of the country.

Samoa faces a major environmental threat from deforestation. Agricultural change is the major culprit although logging has played its part in disturbing the delicate ecosystem. Marine resources are also under pressure from over-fishing, the gung-ho practice of blowing fish out of the water with explosives, and a deadly increase in the reef-wrecking crown-of-thorns starfish. Fortunately there has been a concerted effort over the last few years to develop eco-friendly industries and conserve the beauty and biological diversity of the rainforests that cover much of the uplands. These lush tropical rainforests are not only a source of food but also a large out-of-doors apothecary that contain mega-amounts of medicinal compounds. Because of their remoteness the islands have been resistant to any form of colonisation by animals and the only big game in these parts have gills and fins. The wildlife is limited to some flying foxes, a couple of Polynesian rats opting out of the rat race, and a lazy gecko or two.

Samoa is hot and humid most of the year although the edge is taken off the sweatbox conditions by the southeasterly trade winds blowing from April to October and intermittently (and welcomingly) in between. The wet season (or summer) is between November and April, and the dry season (or winter) between May and October. Samoa lies in the cyclone belt and is periodically buffeted and bruised by cyclones, especially in the months between November and April.

Samoa is one of the cheapest countries to travel in the South Pacific, making it a particularly attractive destination for budget travellers. If you're happy to do it

Exchanging money in Samoa is straightforward. Travellers cheques and most currencies can be exchanged without hassle and there is no black market to contend with. Because of Samoa's proximity to American Samoa it issometimes possible to pay in US dollars although the Samoan tala remains the official unit of currency. Most middle-to-upper range hotels and car rental firms will accept major credit cards.

Tipping is neither expected nor particularly encouraged in Samoa and bargaining is definitely not accepted. The price you see is the price you pay.

When you're talking paradise, any time is a good time to go. As a general rule, however, you might find your Polynesian parade being rained on in December and January and your holiday smile melting in the humid months between November and April. The very best time to go is in the dry season, between May and October, when the weather is perfect and the events calendar is full. If you're a keen diver or into big-game fishing, the Polynesian Dive Fest and the Game Fishing Tournament take place in mid-August. The rising of the Palolo, one of the most fascinating natural phenomena, takes place on the coral reefs of Savai'i in October and the Samoan cultural event of the year, the Teuila Festival, takes place in September.