Tuvalu is a scattered group of nine tiny atolls in the western Pacific Ocean. The total land area of the densely populated group is only 26 sq km (10 sq mi), however the islands occupy 1.3 million sq km (500,000 sq mi) of ocean between Kiribati and the Samoas. Five of the islands are low-lying coral atolls; the highest point on these (and the highest point in Tuvalu) is just 4.6m (15ft) above sea level. The remaining four islands are pinnacles of land that peak out of the ocean, rising up from the sea bed. On the islands there are many reefs and salt-water ponds (increasing at a worrying rate as the ocean levels rise), while the island of Nanumea hosts a fresh-water pond, rare for an atoll.

Made mostly of eroded coral, Tuvalu has poor soil, no streams or rivers, and few remaining outcrops of forest undergrowth. Coconut palms grow in abundance across all the islands, but otherwise there is only enough soil to support subsistence agriculture for about three-quarters of the population. All other food needs to be imported. Water needs are met by catchment and storage facilities as the porous, low-lying atolls are unable to hold ground water. The only land animals are the Polynesian rat, chickens, dogs and pigs - all introduced species.

The climate is tropical, with an average temperature of 30°C (87°F) and little seasonal variation. The wet season is between October and March, and boy, is it wet! 350cm (12ft) of rain falls in a normal year. Cyclone (hurricane) activity is rare; there have been only four severe hits this century (but all since 1972). So fragile is the Tuvaluan landmass that cyclones Gavin and Hina eroded an estimated 7% of the total surface area in 1997. Independent sailors are best advised to steer clear or settle in during the wet season.

Aside from a small but increasing number of accommodation options on Funafuti Atoll and one guesthouse on Vaitupu, there is little in the way of places to stay across Tuvalu. Wherever there are people, however, you'll probably find someone who will offer a roof and a meal at a reasonable price. There is one hotel, the government-owned

Arrive with Australian dollars in cash, or travellers cheques if you're staying at the hotel. Don't be surprised if your credit cards aren't accepted, although the only bank, the National Bank of Tuvalu, gives cash advances to Mastercard holders. The international airport at Funafuti (with the irresistable airport code: FUN) has lockers and a VIP lounge. There is a pick-up service offered by the hotel for guests, as well as a few taxis doing the run into town. When you're leaving Tuvalu, there is a US$14 departure tax.

Tipping is not expected, so for the sake of future travellers, don't do it unless service is extraordinary.

The best time to enjoy the islands of Tuvalu is between May and September, when the easterly trade winds - and with them the chances of fine weather - spring up. The risk of tropical cyclones is reduced at this time, too.