The Cape Verde islands are in the Atlantic Ocean, 620km (385mi) west of West Africa's coast at Mauritania. There are 10 major islands (9 of them inhabited) and 5 islets, all of volcanic origin and grouped into the Barlavento (Windward) group (Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, Ilheu Branco, Ilheu Raso, São Nicolau, Sal and Boa Vista) to the north and the Sotavento (Leeward) group (Maio, São Tiago, Fogo and Brava) to the south.

The interior of the main island, São Tiago, is mountainous, and Fogo has the islands' highest peak, Mt Fogo (2840m/9320ft). Fogo was rocked by a volcanic eruption in 1995; there have been seven such eruptions since 1760. Many of the islands are arid and hilly, and cultivation of the hillsides has caused widespread soil erosion. Santo Antão has the highest rainfall and tends to be much greener than the other islands.

Common plants in the islands include rhododendrons, the fire tree, dragon tree, marmulano, corn plant and the Florida Beauty dracaena.

Among the islands' most colourful fauna are its coral and fish, especially in the waters around Sal, where you'll see parrot fish, barracuda and moray eels. You might also spot blue and humpback whales, the narrow-snouted dolphin, harbour porpoise and loggerhead, green and hawksbill turtles. The Raza Island lark, Cape Verde petrel, brown booby, frigatebird, tropicbird and Cape Verde warbler are among the birds winging around the archipelago. Creepy crawlies include the Cape Verde skink and the giant Cape Verde gecko.

Cape Verde has the coolest temperatures of any country in West Africa. Daily highs range from 20°C (68°F) to around 29°C (84°F) from August to October, when there can also be rainstorms. Due to ocean currents, the sea is also considerably chillier than along the West African coast.

Luxury is not a conspicuous feature of Cape Verdean accommodation or dining. You could spend US$100 a day and nearly max out what's on offer, though islandhopping, scuba diving and souvenir hunting will all rachet up your budget. Moderate travel will run closer to US$50 a day, though you can get by for less if you pick your accommodation with care and do some self-catering. Budget travellers can squeak by for well under US$50 a day if they stick to inexpensive resthouses and restaurants.

Banks in the major towns can change money and travellers' cheques. Some hotels in Praia will also change US dollars into escudos. There's no bank at the Praia airport, so be sure to unload your excess escudos in town before you leave.

Expect to tip 10% in better restaurants, but check the bill carefully to be sure a service charge hasn't already been added.

The best time to visit Cape Verde is from August to October, when the weather is pleasantly warm, though the winds are pretty stiff year round, so bring a windcheater. The rest of the year is much cooler.