Though slightly smaller than the US state of Oregon, Ghana is one of the most densely populated countries in West Africa. It lies south of Burkina Faso, between Togo to the east and the Côte d'Ivoire to the west, on the Gulf of Guinea. Most of the country is made up of wooded hill ranges, wide valleys and low-lying coastal plains, though the northern third of the country is thick with rainforests. A fair chunk of central Ghana was swallowed by Lake Volta in 1964, when the Volta River was dammed and the lake swelled to become one of the largest in Africa.

The south-western area of Lake Volta is the site of the massive Kujani Game Reserve/Digya National Park, Ghana's largest protected area, which is known for its hippos, water buck, crocodiles and manatees. North-west of the lake is Ghana's best known national park, the Mole Game Reserve, where you can see lions, leopards and over 300 species of bird. Outside of these and a few other parks and reserves, you're unlikely to run into much of Ghana's wildlife, mostly because inroads to the outback are so limited. While you're here, though, keep your eyes peeled for signs of antelope, wild boar, forest elephant, the occasional big cat, a few species of monkey and interesting bird life.

While Ghana's average temperatures show little variety - floating between 25°C (75°F) and 29°C (84°F) - it's the thick humidity that you'll remember. There are three rainfall zones. Along the coast (including Accra), the rainfall is light and the rainy season lasts from April until June with a short spell in October. In the interior forests, the rains are heavier and last longer. In the north, the weather becomes drier, with only one rainy season, which lasts from May to September.

Ghana is among Africa's costlier destinations, though travel here is still very cheap by western standards. Travellers intent on stretching their cedis to the limit can easily get by on less than US$10 per day, staying in decrepit hotels and eating all meals from street vendors. A moderate hike in standards might bring the total to US$20 per day, including comfortable bedding, running water and regular restaurant meals. Luxury items like air conditioning and fine French cuisine are available only in the big cities, and you should plan on spending at least US$50 per day for the experience.

The best currencies to bring to Ghana are US dollars, French francs, deutschmarks and British pounds; other currencies - even Canadian dollars and Japanese yen - exchange at extremely unfavorable rates. There are foreign exchange bureaus (Forex) in all the major towns and cities, but many outside Accra won't accept traveller's cheques. Forex bureaus tend to give better rates for large-denomination bills than banks do, but otherwise bank rates are slightly better. A few banks give cash withdrawals against Visa and MasterCard, minus a commission and a fee for the approval telex. In theory, all branches of Barclays Bank (but most reliably in Accra and Kumasi) give cash advances against Visa and MasterCard, but charge a hefty commission for their trouble.

There really is no 'best' time to visit Ghana, as the temperature is always Africa-hot and if rainfall doesn't soak you, then the humid air will. If you prefer your soaking tropical in nature, stick close to the beaches. Whatever the season, the weather gets more arid the farther inland you go. Village-specific festivals and events occur throughout the year.