On Africa's east coast, Kenya straddles the equator and shares a border with Somalia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda and Tanzania. Its coast is lapped by the Indian Ocean and it shares the vast waters of Lake Victoria with its western and southern neighbours. The Rift Valley and Central Highlands area form the backbone of the country, and this is where Kenya's scenery is at its most spectacular. The humid coastal belt includes the Tana River estuary and a string of good beaches. Western Kenya takes in the fertile fringes of Lake Victoria and, with the southern part of the country, some prime wildlife parks. The vast, arid northen region is where Kenya is at its wildest and most untouched by the modern world.

Kenya's flora and fauna defies easy description. The vast plains of the south are dotted with flat-topped acacia trees, thorn bushes and the distinctive bottle-shaped baobab tree. On the rarified slopes of Mt Elgon and Mt Kenya, bamboo forests sprout and even higher up is the bizarre groundsel tree, with its huge cabbage-like flowers, and giant lobelias with long spikes. If you're more into fur and feathers, then head for the teeming wildlife parks. Lions, buffalos, elephants, leopards and rhinos all cavort openly in at least two of the major parks. Endangered animals such as the black rhino are slowly making a comeback and sanctuaries for these creatures can be visited in Tsavo and Lake Nakuru national parks.

Kenya's climate varies enormously from place to place. The Rift Valley offers the most agreeable weather, while the arid bushlands and semi-desert regions can range from daytime highs of up to 40° Celsius to lows of about 20° Celsius at night. Western Kenya and the eastern coastal fringe are generally hot and humid year-round.

The cost of budget accommodation in Kenya is very reasonable as long as you're happy with communal showers and toilets. At the lower end of the Kenya experience, you could get by on about US$4-7 a day. Double this for comfortable travel and expect to pay anything from US$65 to US$130 or more a day for a safari. Daily national park fees range from US$5 to US$30 for the more popular parks. Every town has small cafés catering to local people where you can get a traditional meal for under US$4. For just a little bit more, Kenya's Indian restaurants are great value.

With the deregulation of the money supply, foreign-exchange bureaus are the best places to change money. Their rates are competitive and they don't charge commission. Banks will change money, but their commission can be steep. The place to carry your money is in a pouch against your skin. Anything more obvious will only make a thief's job easier.

With such an active tourist industry, Kenya is a country where tipping is expected. In anything more than a basic eatery, 5-10% of the bill is the usual amount expected. On safari, drivers, guides and cooks often rely heavily on tips to get by. Around US$3 per employee per day is about the right amount.

The main tourist season is in January and February, since the hot, dry weather at this time of year is generally considered to be the most pleasant. It's also when Kenya's birdlife flocks to the Rift Valley lakes in the greatest numbers. June to September could be called the 'shoulder season' as the weather is still dry. The rains hit from March to May (and to a lesser extent from October to December). During these months things are much quieter - places tend to have rooms available and prices drop. The rains generally don't affect travellers' ability to get around.