Malawi is a smallish, landlocked country wedged between Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique. Roughly 900km (560mi) long and 150km (95mi) east to west at its widest point, Malawi is slightly larger than Bulgaria or Cuba. Most of its eastern border is formed by Lake Malawi (also called Lake Nyasa), the third-largest lake in Africa, which covers almost a fifth of Malawi's total area. The Great Rift Valley passes through Malawi, forming the trough in which Lake Malawi sits.

Malawi's main highland areas are the Nyika and Viphya Plateaux, and Mt Mulanje in the south. Malawi's highest point is the summit of Sapitwa (3000m/9840ft) at the centre of Mt Mulanje. The main river in the country is the Shire (pronounced 'Shir-ee'), which flows out of the southern end of Lake Malawi and eventually into the Zambezi River in Mozambique.

Malawi's vegetation includes Miombo woodland, found in wetter areas around 1500m (5000ft); lowland mopane, found in the middle Shire Valley and the southern shores of Lake Malawi; evergreen forest, scattered about the country; montane grassland, found in the rolling hills of the north; and the wetland areas of lakeshores and riverbanks. The country has many different kinds of indigenous wildflowers, due to the wide range of habitats. There are numerous varieties of proteas, aloes, gladioli and helichrysums (knows as 'everlastings'). Malawi is particularly famous for its orchids: more than 400 species have been recorded.

Vast animal herds of the popular easy-to-spot variety are lacking in Malawi, but there are plenty of large animals roaming about. Most are found in the country's national parks and game reserves. Liwonde, the main national park, is noted for its herds of elephant and antelope (including impala, bushbuck and kudu), and hippopotamus in the Shire River. Zebra, warthog, eland, jackal, leopard and hartebeest are more common in the north, especially in Nyika National Park. Malawi is famous for its fish - Lake Malawi has more species than any other inland body of water in the world, with a total over 500. The wet season runs from mid-October or early November to mid or late April; the dry season lasts from may to October or November. Average daily highs peak around 32°C (90°F) in October (although it can get a few degrees hotter in inland areas such as the Shire Valley); July is the coolest month, with daily highs around 21°C (70°F).

You can travel rather comfortably in Malawi, staying at the top-end lodges and eating at the best restaurants, for US$250 to $350 a day or more, depending on whether you criss-cross the country in chartered planes and refurnish your dining room with handcarved chief's chairs. Moderate travel will run closer to US$100 to $200 a day, though you can get by for less if you pick your accommodation with care and do a little self-catering. Budget travellers can squeak by for well under US$50 a day if they stick to cheap resthouses and restaurants.

US dollars are widely accepted. It's a good idea to have some travellers' cheques on hand, although cash will bring better exchange rates. Credit cards are near useless outside the capital and a few major cities. You should be able to get cash advances on credit cards at major banks, although the system has been known to break down and getting cash can take a day or so even when it's working. As banks are free to offer current market rates, there's no black market to speak of, and changing money on the street is likely to be an invitation to a rip-off.

All middle and top-end hotels and restaurants include a 10% service charge on your bill and add a whopping 20% tax. The 10% service charge

The best time to visit Malawi overall is in the dry season, which lasts from late April to October or November. If you're coming to see game, the best time is late in the dry season, when animals converge at water holes and the heat can be unpleasant, especially in the lowlands. The landscape is much more attractive and conditions less oppressive from May to July, but there are fewer animals about. The early dry season is the best time for birdwatching; it's also exceedingly hot, exceptionally wet or both.