Over three times the size of the UK, Nigeria occupies 15% of West Africa but has 56% of its people. It sits on the Gulf of Guinea sandwiched to the north by Niger, the east by Cameroon and the west by Benin. Most of Nigeria is flat and unexciting apart from the mountains that run along the Cameroon border, and the lush tropical rainforest in the interior which opens out onto the central grasslands of the Jos plateau. To the east is the soggy, mosquito-infested swamplands of the Bight of Benin which hold Nigeria's most precious commodity, oil.

Nigeria has extraordinary biological diversity but is facing environmental disaster. Rapid deforestation is an unfortunate consequence of its ever increasing population and in West Africa only Côte d'Ivoire cuts down trees at a faster rate. However, there are still a number of reserves and national parks where you can hang out with nature and get into bird watching. Both the Yankari National Park and the Gashaka Game Reserve are home to over 600 species of birds. Okomo Sanctuary and Cross River National Park have less of the feathery animals and more of the furry four-footed kind - chimps, hippos, elephants and baboons - and if you're lucky you may get a glimpse of a gorilla (once thought to have packed up and left the area), at Cross River National Park.

Like everything else about Nigeria the climate is varied and differs substantially from region to region. The north is hot and dry with one long rainy season from April to September, while in the south it is hot and wet with the rainy season lasting from March to November. Temperatures are slightly lower in the tropical regions of the south but it's the humidity that's a real killer. Relief from the humidity only comes in December and January during the Harmattan season when cool dry winds blow off the desert.

The niara continues to be devalued against foreign currencies making it a boon for western travellers. A budget traveller happy with YMCA accommodation or shared facilities and a fondness for African soups and goat curry can survive on as little as US$10-15 a day. Be very careful with budget accommodation in the bigger cities such as Lagos. Due to the high personal security risks you are considerably increasing your chances of being mugged or robbed at the very least. Those on a moderate budget hoping for air-conditioning, running water, and lights that work (or one out of the three) can expect to pay between US$30-50, while those staying at the best places in town and dining out on European style food can shell out over US$150 a day.

Lugging wads of cash around isn't usually a good idea but in the case of Nigeria you should probably take some readies with you to smooth your way through customs. It may also take a while for the bank to change your travellers' cheques, if at all, and a hefty commission is often involved. There's a flourishing black market that usually offers better rates but it is illegal. Credit cards are all but useless except in five star hotels and there are numerous credit card scams on the go. Tipping is a grey area but generally speaking you will be expected to tip 10% in the better restaurants. Check the bill to see if service has been included. Nigeria is built on the practice of

The best time to visit Nigeria is from December to March when the humidity drops, although the catch is that you may then suffer from the dusty Harmattan winds. If a bit of sand in the face doesn't bother you, go in January when you can attend the Sallah celebrations in northern Nigeria followed by the Argungu Fishing Festival on the banks of the Sokoto River in mid-to-late February.