Uganda occupies a chunk of eastern Africa about the size of the United Kingdom. It's bordered by Sudan to the north, Kenya to the east, Lake Victoria, Tanzania and Rwanda to the south, and Congo (formerly Zaire) to the west.

With its relatively low population density and scarcity of wildlife (the latter courtesy of the decimation that occurred during the bad old days), Uganda lacks many of the environmental pressures faced by other countries in East Africa. The national parks and wilderness areas are generally in good shape, and conditions are ideal for the native animals to re-establish themselves. The highest density of primates in the world live in Kibale National Park, while Bwindi National Park is one of the last remaining habitats of the mountain gorillas.

About 25% of Uganda's land is fertile and arable, making the country quite capable of producing a food surplus. Lake Victoria and the Victoria Nile, which flows through much of the country, create one of the best irrigated areas of Africa. However, the growing problem of water hyacinth threatens the ecology of Lake Victoria and the livelihood of the people who live by its shores. This aquatic weed floats in large 'islands' on the lake surface and grows so prolifically that it chokes waterways and stops light from penetrating the lake surface, making it impossible for fish to live beneath it.

The land varies from the lush and fertile shores of Lake Victoria in the southeast, to semi-desert in the northeast. Uganda is fairly flat, with mountains only in the extreme east (Mt Elgon), far west (Ruwenzori Mountains) and the beautiful south-west, close to the Rwandan border. Though flat, the country is high, with an average altitude of over 1000m (3280ft).

The bulk of the country enjoys a tropical climate tempered by altitude. The hottest months are from December to February, when it gets up to 29°C (84°F). The rainy seasons in the south are from April to May and October to November, the wettest month being April. In the north the wet season is from April to October.

Since the elimination of the black market and the introduction of foreign exchange (forex) bureaus, Uganda is one of the most expensive countries in East Africa. Enjoying the finer things in life here requires a minimum of US$75 a day. Moderate food and accommodation take at least US$40 a day. Those on a budget can try to squeak by on US$20 a day. National park entry fees are about US$15 per person per day.

The Ugandan shilling is a stable, fully convertible currency, fluctuating very little from day to day. It doesn't matter too much where you change your money, though the forex bureaus generally offer better rates than the banks. You'll find forex bureaus at most border posts and in all major cities. For maximum flexibility take most of your money in travellers' cheques and the rest in cash, preferably US dollars, British pounds or South African rand. Credit cards are accepted only at larger hotels and restaurants.

You won't be expected to tip in Uganda, though feel free to do so if you've received exceptional service. Bargain when buying things from a market, street stall or craft shop.

The best time to visit Uganda is late December to late February, as the weather at this time of year is generally dry (though hot). A close second is the mid-June to mid-August period. Don't even think about trekking outside of these dry months.